A few years ago, I was sad to see the demolition of that funky Beachside Café. It was once the go-to spot for many of us who wanted to get a cheap breakfast, and watch the hungry seagulls soaring overhead.
But now we have a welcomed facelift at Mother’s Beach, and with it, the arrival of a fine fusion sensation, aptly called Vū (pronounced "view").
This earthy, yet modern arrival ushers in eclectic charm that promises many culinary twists and turns, thanks to the direction of executive chef Kyle Schutte, who brings his cuisine skills from Atlanta. Coupled with the management skills of Wally Moran from Café del Rey, you can see why this pairing promises to be a winner.
Although there are many entrees available, small plates are the way to go at Vū, giving diners a chance to sample from a dazzling menu. We took our waiter Jacob’s advice and allowed ourselves to be willing passengers in this dining adventure.
Libations? How about a 310 Mojito, with Bacardi, mint leaves, agave and raspberry? Thank you for this introduction Rob, our bartender and “cocktail enthusiast.” Two glasses of Miura Pinot Noir ($12) followed to pave our palates.
Here’s our journey:
“Reconstructed” Caprese Salad-balsamic-injected cherry tomatoes, basil-infused fresh mozzarella, red Hawaiian sea salt, micro basil-$9
This was a grand beginning, with an exciting orb of flavor. Pop it into your mouth and enjoy its nuances.
Beef Tartare-celery root puree, blueberry, celery leaf, funyuns, quail egg-$12
This is an absolute must, and although I’m not much of a meat eater, we easily slopped it down, thanks to the blueberries that added a nice touch.
Thai Mussels-green curry broth, hamachi salad, coconut jello, scallion, micro cilantro-$9
Another winner, with these delicate spoons of flavor. The visuals on this were enough to wow me, but the added punch of flavor made me wish there were several more.
Calamari-chicken-fried, pink lemonade mayo-$11
I usually avoid fried foods, but these dense fingers were an exceptional treat, thanks to the pink lemonade mayo.
Trout-blackberry & brown butter emulsion, corn, asparagus, dried cranberry, parsley gel-$18
On the entrée side, we liked the trout, which will appeal to those with tamer palates.
But it was the dessert that ushered in our accolades. Imagine an ice cream devoid of air? Chef Schutte prepares the ice cream with liquid nitrogen, so that you have a pure creamy experience without all the fluff. Our favorite was the mint.
We also enjoyed the White Chocolate Polenta, with frosted flakes, and Chambord-flambéed berries.
We enjoyed this place, which opened in December of 2010. It’s got a nice hang-loose personality, with enough upscale charm to impress discriminating diners. We especially like the fact that it’s easy to stroll by the water after your meal and enjoy the scenery of Mother’s Beach.
And from the looks of the newly revamped Jamaica Bay Inn, I’m sure this place is already swelling with activity.
14160 Palawan Way
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner